Some friends were in from out of town and we were looking for a place to dine at. We decided on a place in the neighborhood of Fells Point, right at the edge of the Baltimore harbor. There, we had a great meal at the nautically themed restaurant Ampersea.
Fells Point is an historic neighborhood near the waterfront in downtown Baltimore. Established in 1763, it was originally a working class neighborhood where ships were built and canned goods were manufactured. In the 1970s, young professionals started moving into the area. Nowadays it is a popular place for locals and tourists. The area features many antique and music stores, restaurants and bars. Many are locally owned, with the main street having over 100 small businesses. The historic architecture has been preserved and the neighborhood houses the oldest buildings in Baltimore.
Ampersea is located at the edge of Fells Point, right next to the Patapsco River. The restaurant is owned by financier Chuck Nabit. Nabit also owned the restaurant that previously had been at the spot since 2015, Waterfront Kitchen. I doubt he is involved with the day to day operations. Chef Nelson Morton in charge of the kitchen since the rebranding in 2018.
The Menu
Ampersea’s menu is seasonal. What I describe here is what was on the menu in the Fall of 2023. The menu is divided into sections: Spreads and Shares (appetizers) , Soup & Salad, Casual Fare (sandwiches and wraps), and four kinds of main dishes, describe below. No one in our group ordered soup, salad, or sandwiches so I will not comment on them.
Appetizers
With almost a dozen options, the appetizers section is extensive, . Noteworthy items are Brussel Sprouts, Oyster Rockerfeller, Seafood Tamales, and Arancini (fried balls of Risotto ). Our group ordered four: Cheese & Charcuterie, Fried green tomatoes, Crab Dip, and the Burrata Toast.
My favorite was the Burrata. The cheese was soft and flavorful and the vegetables, arugula and tomatoes, had sharp taste that contrasted well with it. All were on top of toast, giving the dish a nice crunch and texture. The fried tomatoes are also excellent: crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. They were topped with a ricotta mousse topping that I enjoyed.
The crab dip came with a Bavarian pretzel. I liked both, but the crab dip was too firm to dip the pretzel in; I had to scoop it out with a knife. The Charcuterie had a decent assortment of cheeses and meats. The cheese selection was the best part; it contained a good mix of hard and soft cheese. It was also served with warm honey, which I loved.
Main Course
As mentioned above, the main courses are divided into several menu sections: Vegetarian, Chesapeake & Chilled, Seafood, and Polished Plates (meat dishes). The Vegetarian dishes are Mushroom Risotto and Cauliflower Taco. The Chesapeake sections consists of one item: raw oysters. The seafood section includes MD Crab Cakes, Lobster Roll, and the catch of the day. The meat dishes are Short Rib, Stuffed Chicken, and the Cut of the night (which was strip steak that day).
I was primarily interested in the seafood dishes and decided to order the Seared scallops. Long time readers may notice that I have a fondness for scallops. These scallops are served with sauteed kale, cauliflower, spring pea puree, parsnips, and a lemon beurre blanc sauce. Except for the sauce, I did not find the accompaniments all that noteworthy. But the scallops were perfect: lightly seasoned, with a good sear on the outside, and tender on the inside. The way scallops are supposed to be made.
Many of my companions ordered the catch of the day, swordfish. They uniformly reported that it was excellent. A couple of others ordered the salmon, which also got positive reviews. One commented that it was just the way she liked in, light and flaky on the inside.
Desserts
While there is not a printed dessert menu, Ampersea does have desserts. The waiter describes the choices available upon request. That night they were: New York style cheesecake, Strawberry bread pudding, and a dessert whose name I do not remember but consisted of fried balls of cookie dough served with ice cream. Our group shared got all three.
The fried cookie dough was my favorite. It had good texture, perfectly crisp on the outside but soft and gooey on the inside. It is quite rich and decadent. The ice cream, soft and creamy, cuts the rich tasted of the cookie.
A close second was the bread pudding. It has a good amount of strawberries, giving it a distinct flavor while not overpowering the dish. It is served with a cream sauce, a classic combination with strawberries, that also provides some moisture to lighten the bread. The combination is exquisite.
Last, but not least, is the cheesecake. It has a light texture and mild flavor. What stood out, though, was the fruit compote on top. Without the added sugar, the flavors of the fruit come through and perfectly balances the richness of the cake.
Final Thoughts
With fantastic views overlooking the Patapsco River, Ampersea has great ambience. Dimly lit with elegant decor, it has the feel of fine dining. We arrived early evening when there were few other patrons. But as the night progressed, the restaurant gradually filled up. I expect that during the summer months or on weekends, it would be hard to get seated. The service was prompt and courteous and the food arrived without long waits. For a luxurious night out in the Baltimore area, Ampersea is a great choice.
Jim's Dining Guides 