Dining Guide to Historic Mobile, Alabama

Mobile, the Port City! It is Alabama’s oldest city. First settled by the French in 1702, Mobile has passed through English, Spanish, and now American hands. It is full of history and southern hospitality. And many great places to dine.

While searching for places to eat in Mobile, I found three websites invaluable. The first was Bienville Bites, which has a great list of iconic restaurants in Mobile. In addition to restaurant recommendations, Alabama Life has a wealth of information about the history of the food scene in Mobile. Finally, I went to many of the places recommended in Restaurant Observer’s article on Mobile.

Restaurant Map

Below you’ll find a map of all the restaurants I dined at along with the other landmarks I talk about.

Breakfast

There were three places in Mobile that I wanted to eat breakfast at. I made it to two of them.

Bob’s Downtown Diner

Bob’s Downtown Diner is located at the corner of St. Francis and North Jackson streets in the heart of downtown. Owner and Executive Chef, Tony Sawyer opened the diner in 2014. The restaurant is known for its loyal customers. Indeed, many of the dishes are named after patrons. Alabama Life recommended one such dish, Mrs. Ann’s Breakfast. The restaurant is open 7 days a week, 7:00 AM – 3:00 PM.

Bob’s has a full breakfast menu containing all the items you would expect: eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, omelets, and biscuits and gravy. 

These come in combination plates with names such as Bob’s Breakfast, David’s Breakfast, Mr. B’s Country Fried Steak & Eggs, and Ray’s Breakfast Sandwich. Somewhat unusual, at least for this northerner, is the variety of dishes with fish and/or grits. They also have salads, tacos, and Po-Boys.

Grits, Greens & Fish

On my first trip there, I had one of the grits recipes: Grits, Greens & Fish. It consists of turnip greens mixed in with grits and topped with a fried fish. It is a heavy dish and a bit more food than I was expecting. While I liked the dish, the greens were a bit much for me. Their tasted dominated. The fish, however, I loved. Freshly fried, it came out piping hot. Crispy on the outside and flaky on the inside, it was perfect.

When my plans for eating elsewhere fell through, I returned to Bob’s. This time I got one of my favorite diner foods: biscuits and gravy. The biscuits were perfect: light, fluffy, and buttery. The gravy was delicious but I had not realized it did not come with sausage. You have to order that extra (which the waitress did ask, but I had mistakenly declined.) Despite that, I highly recommend this dish.

Bob’s Downtown Diner is interesting because it has the look of a bar but the feel of a diner. Many of the customers seemed to be regulars and knew each other. It is a warm, friendly, and welcoming place. It is the perfect spot to get breakfast.

Bistro Saint Emanuel

The Bistro Saint Emanuel is a relatively new restaurant, opening in early 2022 while the city was recovering from the pandemic. It quickly gained a reputation as one of the best breakfast spots in Mobile. It is located in the historic Fort Conde Village, an area that houses the oldest buildings in Mobile. The village is not far from the downtown area, but because of Highway 10 it is a little isolated.

Bistro Saint Emanuel is the restaurant for Fort Conde Inn. Both the inn and the village are named after the Colonial era fort that marks the edge of the village. The Inn dates back to 1836. It is the 2nd oldest building in Mobile. The current incarnation of the Inn opened in 2014, when Lawrence & David Posner were busy revitalizing the area.

Bistro Saint Emanuel’s breakfast menu consists of: The Guest Breakfast (eggs and potatoes with coffee), Benedictions (a choice of Egg’s Benedict), omelettes, soups, salads, and Specialties. The Specialties have some fun names: The Full Conde (steak and eggs), Crepes Bienville, The New Yorker (bagel with Lox), Avocado Toast, Poutine, Bananas Foster French Toast and Belgian Waffle Praline. The crepe dish is named after one of the founders of Mobile, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville. There is also a brunch menu. It has a variety of sandwiches and a small number of cocktails.

Benedict a la Joe Cain

I found the selection quite daunting, as so many of the items sound good. And while I do love a good Poutine, I decided to go with one of the Benedicts: the a la Joe Cain. It is also named after a historic Mobile figure, as Joe was the person who started the modern celebration of Mardi Gras in the period following the Civil War.  A la Joe Cain is similar to a traditional Benedict, except that it has Conecuh sausage instead of bacon and a crawfish cream sauce instead of hollandaise. The Conecuh sausage is a type of sausage that is not found outside of Mobile, The waitress remarked that Conecuh was one of the things she missed while she was living outside of Alabama. And I can see why. The sausage is a bit spicy, but what gives it a unique flavor is that it is hickory smoked. I liked the rest of the Benedict as well. The eggs were freely running and the English muffin had good texture. The home fries were crisp and fresh.

The bistro has a elegant, slightly upscale atmosphere with music softly playing in the background. I was there first thing in the morning and had the place to myself. That gave me the opportunity to have a lengthy, very pleasant conversation with the hostess. I thoroughly enjoyed my breakfast at the Bistro. It certainly lived up to its reputation.

Lunch

There are plenty of great spots for lunch in Mobile. Here are the places I went to.

Mama’s on Dauphin

Mama’s on Dauphin was the first place I had lunch at in Mobile and I immediately fell in love with it. The restaurant is full of warmth and Southern hospitality and serves up loads of comfort food. Opening in 2003, it has become a mainstay of Mobile.

The menu is sectioned into Appetizers, Salads, Sandwiches, Entrees, and Platters . The appetizers are Fried Green Tomatoes, with either horseradish or Crawfish Julie sauce, and Seafood Gumbo Soup. The salads are: Water Street Salad, Mama’s Chef Salad, Chicken Salad Salad , and the Conti Street Combo (soup and salad). There are 7 types of sandwiches: Club Sandwich, Loda Po-Boy, Mama’s Chicken Salad, Fried Green Tomato BLT, and Sweet Pig Cheese (a grilled cheese with sweet bacon jam). The entrees depend on the day of the week. They include: Red Beans and with Conecuh Sausage, Fried Chicken, Shrimp N Grits, Smother Pork Chips, and Country Fried Steak. The entrees come with 2 or 3 sides. I made note of these: Mashed Potatoes & Gravy, Collard Greens, Fried Okra, and Candied Yams. The platters are: Chicken Finger, Fried Fish, Fried Shrimp, and Blackened Fish with Crawfish Julie Sauce. There is also a Shrimp & Fish Combo.

Shrimp Po Boy

That is a lot to choose from. I decided I was in the mood for a Po-Boy and ordered that. The choices of meat are fried shrimp, fish, or crawfish. I went with shrimp. I also wanted to try the gumbo, so I ordered a cup of that. The Po-Boy was huge! It overflowed with shrimp, and the slice of French bread it was served in was enormous! The toppings were lettuce, tomatoes, and onions. None of the ingredients were skimpy and all of them were quite fresh. My one complaint was that I could have used a sauce. Maybe they forgot? Despite that, the sandwich was delicious.

Mamaw Smith’s Banana Pudding

I was interested in their dessert, Mamaw Smith’s Banana Pudding. The person sitting next to me had one and highly recommended it. But I was short on time. The waitress, seeing me look at my watch, helpfully suggested I take it to go. I did just that. It was delicious. And like the Po-Boy, chuck full of fresh ingredients: fresh bananas, shortbread cookies, and the delightful pudding.

Mama’s has the look and feel of a country kitchen. This is reinforced by the wait staff, who are extremely friendly and welcoming. The place was packed during the lunch hour, so I ended up sitting at the bar. (The place emptied out a bit at the end of the hour.) Despite the crowds, I was served very promptly. The food came out soon after I ordered it. A few days later, I had the good fortune to meet the owner at an event he catered. (One of the items served was the Sweet Pig Cheese – decadent!) Gregarious and friendly, the man is a total foodie. He has dedicated his life to making people happy through good food. By my reckoning, he is succeeding.

Cotton State BBQ

One of the things I really wanted to have while in Mobile was some down home southern barbecue. Fortunately, there is a first rate BBQ restaurant right in the downtown area.

Outside of Cotton State BBQ.

Cotton State BBQ has three kinds of meat: pork, chicken, and brisket. They are served in one of the following manners: Plates, Sandwiches, Potatoes, Fries, or Salads. There are other sandwiches on the menu as well: Turkey & Swiss, Classic Chicken Salad, and Truly Southern Chicken Salad. ( I wonder what makes it Southern?!) Chili and Hot Dogs are also options. The Snacks part of the menu consists of Boiled Peanuts, Chile con Queso & Chips, and Deviled Eggs. Sides include Fries, Cole Slaw, and Potato Salad.

Cotton State BBQ chalkboard menu: Snacks, Plates, Sandwiches, Loaded Potatoes, Loaded Fries, Dogs, Salads, Sides, Desserts.
Add Bacon or Cole Slaw on top for $2.50.

My companions and I all chose the pork sandwiches. But we had different sides. I had cole slaw while my friends had fries. I was expecting the pork to be pulled pork, but it turned out to be sliced! It has a great, smokey flavor that was absolutely delicious. Cotton State has a couple of bottles of red or vinegar BBQ sauce at the table, but this pork was so good that it did not need any. The cole slaw was vinegar based and not mayo. It was seasoned with paprika, giving in a unique flavor. I liked it a lot and felt it went well with the pork.

Oreo Chocolate Pudding

Cotton State’s dessert menu consists of several puddings. The only one that was available that day was the Oreo Chocolate Pudding. It is a fairly standard chocolate pudding, with the Oreos providing a bit of flavor and some crunch. I enjoyed it, but was not blown away like I was with the pork barbecue.

Inside of Cotton State BBQ.

Cotton State BBQ is a small, family run restaurant just oozing with Southern charm. There’s about a dozen tables packed into the space, with a couple of more outside. The waitress was super friendly and a pleasure to talk to. As a member of the family that runs the restaurant, she has been working there for 13 years. I am glad I am able to support her family’s business.

Rooster’s Latin American Food

The number one spot for Latin American food in Mobile is Roosters. Located right in the downtown area, I decided it would be a good place to go for lunch. But the popularity of Roosters made it hard to get a seat. I was not able to get in on my first try. Turns out, on Taco Tuesdays they have a $1 taco special. The line was going out the door. Fortunately, I was able to get a seat the next day.

Front of Rooster's  Latin American Food

Somewhat surprisingly the owner, Frankie Little, is not Latino. But he is a local Alabamian who developed a love for Latin American food while growing up on his Grandma’s farm in nearby Foley. He worked for years in local restaurants and eventually decided he wanted his own business. Rooster’s opened in early 2017.

Specials: Verde Chicken Pozole, Flavored Margaritas, Dessert Special.

The highlights of the menu is their Tacos, of which there are 11 varieties. These include classics such as Carne Asada, Barbacoa, Al Pastor, and Carnitas. Other flavors are Jerk Chicken, Chorizo, and Grilled Vegetables. With Mobile being on the Gulf Coast, there are two fish options: Mahi Mahi and Gulf Shrimp. Non-taco items on the menu are Salad & Soup, Burritos, Sandwiches, and Plates. Notable items from these sections are: Caribbean Jerk Chicken plate, Mahi Fish sandwich, and a Cuban sandwich.

Hot sauce bar

Both my companion and I were interested in the fish tacos. My friend had the Mahi Mahi while I had the Gulf Shrimp. We were both interested in one of the specials, Verde Chicken Pazole, and we both ordered a cup. Pazole is a hominy based soup. Thick and creamy, it was quite good.

Bottle of Mango Habanero hot sauce

The tacos were excellent. The shrimp is topped with a mildly spicy mango salsa that complimented the fish quite well. One of the unique things about Rooster’s is that they have a hot sauce bar, with various kinds of hot sauces. The bar is at the front of the restaurant and you can either grab a bottle or pour some sauce in a plastic cup. I tried the mango habanero one. It is perfect for fish.

Peanut Butter Brownie.

Another one of the specials was a Peanut Butter Brownie a la mode. I could not resist. Rich and chewy, this is a great brownie. Turns out, the brownie was made by the wife of the owner at their home. It certainly tastes like it! I also enjoyed the ice cream, as it was very creamy.

Rooster's inside

As I said, Rooster’s is very popular. It was packed when we arrive, and it took a while before we could place our order and even longer before we received our food. All told, we waited 35 minutes from being seated to eating. That long wait really soured the experience. Which is a shame, because the food is quite good.

Dinner

Noja

When I heard Mobile had Michelin starred restaurants, I had to go to at least one. I decided on Noja, because of their unique fare: a blend of Mediterranean mixed in with Asian flavors, along with a touch of Alabama. We went there our first night in Mobile.

Noja - outside view of front of restaurant

Noja (named after North Jackson, the street it is on) was started by Ethiopian Chakli Digg. Originally a fighter pilot, he changed careers, became a chef, and traveled the world learning new cuisines. He moved to Mobile in 1991 to be near his sister and Mother. Chakli opened Noja in 2005 and it quickly became renowned as one of the best restaurants around.

Noja has a prix fixe menu: there is a set price and customers pick one item from each section: Appetizer, Salad, and Entree. Desserts and drinks are extra. The menu features local, seasonal ingredients and changes weekly.

There were six choices of appetizer that day: Brussel Bowl, Seared Pork Belly, Chicken Tika Masala, Tonight’s Soup, Seared Scallops, Fish Karaage. The Fish Karaage is one of their most popular appetizers. It is Noja’s take on a classic Japanese dish, Karaage. The Japanese version is deep fried pieces of chicken. Noja uses fish instead. My companion ordered that; I chose the Seared Pork Belly. The Karaage was nicely crisped on the outside and tender on the inside. It is glazed with a sweet and sour Asian sauce that is perfect with the chicken. The Pork Belly had a thick, crisp layer of fat on top of a pork so juicy, the liquid was oozing out of it. The pork belly was served on a bed of Polenta and topped with mustard. Good accoutrements, but the star of the dish was the pork.

There were three choices of salad: Fall Salad, Spinach Salad, Caesar Salad. My companion had the Fall Salad while I had the Spinach Salad. The spinach salad had copious amounts of fresh baby spinach and was covered in a thick bacon sauce. It also had plenty of blue cheese crumbles; the blue cheese was quite strong. It’s a great mix of flavors, but a much heavier dish than I anticipated. The Fall Salad had a tasty mix of autumn ingredients. The highlights are roasted pumpkin and sliced apples. Pumpkins seeds provided a crunch. The dressing was an orange vinaigrette. My companion quite enjoyed it.

The entrees were: Lamb Chops, Panko Crusted Fresh Fish, 8 oz Beef Filet, 8 oz Hanger Steak, Roasted Eggplant, Duck Breast, Line Caught Fish, and Pan Seared Salmon. My companion had the Duck Breast, while I had the Line Caught fish. Most entrees are served with a choice of side, a potato (Noja Potatoes or Fingerling Potatoes) and vegetable (Brussel Sprouts or the vegetable of the day). The Line Caught Fish comes with fixed sides: asparagus and a mushroom based dressing,. The duck breast looked absolutely amazing, cooked to a perfect medium rare. My companion was very happy with it. The Line Caught Fish had a nicely crisped top and was tender and flaky. Unfortunately, I don’t remember what the waiter said the fish was. It was served with a silky green sauce that was amazing. It had a deep, rich flavor that the fish soaked up. I also loved the stuffing. It had a taste and texture that was out of this world.

Desserts are not part of the pris fixe menu but both my companion and I wanted to get one. The options were: Ginger Donut, Coconut Rum Bombe, Creme Brule, Flourless Chocolate Torte, Cheesecake Evolution, and Bread Pudding.

Cheesecake Evolution

I decided on the Cheesecake Evolution while my companion had the Bread Pudding (not pictured). My cheescake was very good. I liked the texture, which was light, and the lightly citrus flavor. The menu said it was Satsuma (an Asian fruit). The cake was also topped with a candied piece of Satsuma, which I found too tough to eat. Aside from that, I enjoyed the dessert very much. My companion enjoyed his bread pudding, but I would not call it the best in Mobile.

Noja is a high end restaurant and feels like it. The room is elegantly decorated and the wait staff is prompt and professional. Our waitress knew the menu very well and gave us several good recommendations. Reservations are recommended. We made one, but since we were there during the off season it did not seem that it was necessary. The food and atmosphere are top notch. I am not at all surprised that Noja had earned a Michelin star.

Noble South

Noble South was another upscale restaurant that I wanted to try in Mobile. What sold me was Restaurant Observer’s description: a “smart and contemporary take on Southern Alabama fare.” It lived up to its reputation. Started by Mobile native Chris Rainosek, this farm to table restaurant has been open since May 2014.

We began our meal with an appetizer (called Snacks in the menu). The appetizers were Deviled Eggs, Pickled Shrimp, Blue Cheese Mousse, and Foi Gras Mousse. Of note is that the Deviled Eggs were not ordinary Deviled Eggs, as the filling includes bacon and roe.

Blue Cheese Mousse

But we did not get the Deviled Eggs. We had the Blue Cheese Mousse. It consisted of a whipped cheese spread topped with a berry jam and served with toast. The menu did not specify what berry the jam was made with. It was on the tart side, which I liked. The blue cheese was very mild tasting, smooth and creamy. I found the tart berry offset the rich cheese quite well. Spread on top of toast, it was a great appetizer.

Fried Quail

I was not too hungry that evening, so I ordered a Small Plates item for my main meal. The choices were: Fried Quail, Chesapeake Bay Scallops, Dixie Lee Peas, and Lion’s Maine Mushroom. As much as I love scallops, I can get Chesapeake Bay scallops any time in Maryland. So, I had the Fried Quail. Since quail is a smallish bird, it was portioned just right for me. The preparation was perfect: crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. It was succulent!

My companions ordered from the Supper section of the menu. They chose the Duck Breast, Boullabaisse, and the Vegetable Plate. Other options were: Spinach Bucatini, Swordfish Schnitzel, and NY Strip. My friend who ordered the Duck Breast was a different person who ordered it at Noja, so I did not get a comparison of the two. The person who had it at Noble South loved it. The Boullabaisse also received a great review: it had a good mix of seafood, all with a fresh taste. I did get a taste of the Vegetable Plate. The items in it varies seasonally. That day it was fried Brussels sprouts, roasted cauliflower, and radicchio salad. All three were quite good. My favorite was the radicchio, as it had a crisp, tart taste.

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Even though I was not very hungry, I decided to take a look at the dessert menu. Choices were Persimmon Cheesecake, Tres Leches Cake, Strawberry Semifreddo, and a Meyer Lemon Tiramisu. The semifreddo seemed like it would be light, and I ordered that, My companions had the Tres Leches and the Tiramisu.

Strawberry Semifreddo

The Strawberry Semifreddo was was divine! It was smooth, practically melting on the tongue. It also had a strong, but not overpowering, strawberry taste. I also had tastes of the other two desserts. The Tres Leches was vegan and made with oak milk. It was decent, but it is no substitute for the real thing. But I loved the Tiramisu! It was rich and creamy and had just a hint of a lemon taste. A well balanced dessert.

Noble South is another place that is very busy. We did make a reservation earlier in the day and had no issues getting a table. (The picture was taken at the very end of the evening, after everyone else had left.) We were seated right away and were immediately given menus. Our waiter regular stopped by, checking in with us. As everything is made fresh, it took time for our food to come out. All told, we were there about one and a half hours. But it was an enjoyable, leisurely meal.

Callaghan’s Irish Social Club

My final meal in Mobile was at Callaghan’s Irish Social Club. A local institution since 1946, Callaghan’s is about 1 mile from downtown Mobile, in the residential Oakleigh Garden District. Started by Woodrow Callaghan, John “J.T.” Thompson became owner in 2002 and Callaghan’s quickly established an reputation for great music with bands from throughout the southeast.

Callaghan’s has a small food menu with Starters, Salads, and Sandwiches. The starters are all dips: French Onion Dip, Smoked Tuna Dip, and Spinach & Artichoke Dip. There is one salad, a Garden Salad, but with variations: chicken, shrimp, or Smoked Tuna Salad. There are a variety of dressings; I won’t list them all but I’ll make note of the Italian, Balsamic, and Blue Cheese. The sandwich options are Burgers , Philly Cheese Steaks, Shrimp Po-Boys, Patty Melt, Chicken Club, and a Chicken Sandwich. Each comes with a side. The options are Chips, Potato Salad, Cole Slaw, Pasta Salad, or a Tomato Cucumber Salad.

Bacon Cheeseburger
Cole Slaw

Since Callaghan’s is reputed to have the “Best Burgers in Mobile”, that is what we ordered. I was a bit underwhelmed with what we got. We all ordered our burgers medium, but only one was. Mine was well done. Otherwise, it was a good burger. The beef was high quality, the bacon was fresh, and there was a big slice of cheddar cheese on top (other types are available). Be warned, though it is very greasy. I expect it would have been a great burger if it was not cooked as much.

Potato Salad

For my side I picked the tomato-cucumber salad. The cucumbers were nice and crisp. The tomatoes were so so, but I expect that out of season. They were in a tangy vinaigrette. Other sides ordered at the table were Cole slaw and potato salad for the other. Both got good reviews.

Bread Pudding

For dessert, there was one option: Bread Pudding With Irish Whiskey Sauce. We have had bread pudding elsewhere in Mobile, and I can definitely say theirs is the best. More that that, I would say Callaghan’s has one of the best bread puddings that I have ever had. It has a crisp crust on top, while exceedingly moist on the inside. And the sauce made it over the top. It is worth going to Callaghan’s just for the bread pudding.

Guinness Stout

As you would expect from an Irish Pub, Callaghan’s has a sizable beer selection. On draft, they have: Harps, Guinness, Hazy Little Thing IPA, Fairhope Causeway IPA, Braided Hoppy by Nature, Sipsey River Red, Cahaba Blonde, and Parish Envie. They also listed 9 domestics (Budweiser, Coors, Miller, etc…), and over 40 Imports and Specialty. Those include brands such as Corona, Heineken, Stella, and Blue Moon, but most of the beers I have never heard of. They have names like Abita Purple Haze, Chandeluer Lil Miss Tangerine, and Braided River Sour. I was not too adventurous that night, and stuck with a Guinness Stout. You can’t go wrong with a classic.

Callaghan’s is a old time neighborhood bar and feels like it. It has been around for decades and the history is evident on every wall. They are covered with photographs that show patrons, friends, and family throughout the years. It was quite crowded when we arrived, but we had no issues getting a seat. Our beers came out right way. The burgers took a bit longer; about 40 minutes after the beer. While the service was not quick, it still was a pleasant dinner in a comfortable environment.

Slurp Society Ramen Shop

I did not go to Slurp Society Ramen Shop, but I am including it because my friend who did raved about it. It is located in downtown Mobile, but on St. Michael’s Street which is a couple of blocks away from the main drag.

For her meal, my friend ordered two items. The first was the Slurp OG Ramen bowl with a cup of Hellfire Bomb. The OG is an almost traditional bowl of Ramen, but has a southern twist: Collard Greens and Roast Pork Belly. My friend was impressed with the pork, remarking that it was tender but also had good texture. In her experience, that is uncommon in ramen.

Hellfire Bomb

The Hellfire Bomb, made with habanero peppers, is extremely hot. Her second order was the Ban-Mi Smash. It is a burger made with Wagyu beef but in a steamed bun. The toppings include American Cheese, carrots, Daikon, and jalapenos. She said it was excellent, but I’ve forgotten her detailed comments.

Togarashi Cheesecake

For dessert, she had the Togarashi Cheesecake. This is a cheesecake topped with Miso caramel, whipped cream, and candied peanuts. She remarked that the caramel sauce is very much savory, similar to Salted caramel but less sweet. In the cheesecake, she detected what she eventually decided was onion powder. This gave the dish a deep cheese flavor that she loved. It sounds delightful!

There are other places besides restaurants for a foodie to visit in Mobile. I made it to several.

Other places

Pollman’s Bakery

Pollman’s Bakery has been family owned and operated since 1918. It was started by Fred J. Pollman and it still bears his name. Located on South Broad Street, about 1.5 miles away from downtown, it was the farthest place that I went to. I walked to it, but I expect most people drive or get a ride.

Pollman's Menu.
Breakfast: Jam Biscuit, Sasuage Biscuit
Salad: Chef Salad, Pint Chicken Salad, Chicken Salad Bowl
Sandwiches: Whole Wheat, Rye, Po-boys, Croissant Sandwiches
Turkey and Cheese, Egg Salad, Ham & Cheese, etc..
Specialty Sandwiches: Rueben, Muffaletta

Pollman’s is known for their baked goods, especially their King Cakes. They do have other items: sandwiches (including Po-boys and Muffaletta), salads, and a few breakfast options.

Chocolate dobash cake

I arrived shortly after they opened, which is at 7:30 AM. While it was breakfast time, I was more interested in their baked goods. A King Cake would have been too much food, but I was interested in another recommended item: their chocolate dobash cakes. I had no idea what a dobash is, but figured with chocolate it had to be good. It reminded me of a brownie with chocolate icing on top. I loved it. Moist,rich, and having a deep chocolate flavor, they were worth the walk.

Pollman’s is a store, not a cafe. As such, there is no eating area. The inside is large and there is a lot to choose from. I was overwhelmed when I arrived, but I was immediately offered assistance and quickly got the doobash cake that I was looking for. Impeccable service.

Three Georges Fine Southern Chocolates

Three George's  outside

Three Georges Fine Southern Chocolates has been Alabama’s number one candy shop for over 100 years. Started in 1917 by three Greek immigrants all named George, it has been at the corner of Dauphin and Joachim Streets the entire time. In 1992, the business was sold to Scott Gonzalez, but he was trained by descendants of one of the founders, the Pappas family. He still uses the original family recipes. And the 100 year old marble slabs.

Three Georges serves more than just candy. They have savory items such as Sandwiches (including Muffuletta! ), Hot Dogs, Gumbo, and Jambalaya. On the sweet side of things, there are 8 flavors of iced cream, Banana Splits, Sundaes, Shakes, and Floats.

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But I was interested in the candy made from 100 year old recipes. With several cases full of candy, there is a lot to choose from. I decided to get small samples of several.

My pick was: candied oranges, meltaways, caramels, pillows, turtles, and mint cremes. I was not familiar with meltaways and asked what they were. They are a chocolate candy with a soft, almost air like texture. Pillows are similar to a chocolate covered marshmallow. Mine was stuffed with peanut butter. Everything was excellent. At $35/pound, this candy is not cheap. But worth it. And I did not spend too much. The sample I had — half of which is shown in the picture — was $5.

Three Georges Fine Southern Chocolates looks and feels like and old time candy shop. Exactly what you would expect from a hundred year old shop. Yet the place retains a classy feel. The shop keeper was friendly and helpful, and assisted me greatly with my selection. He was not the owner, but he did explain to me that ownership had passed on from the original Greek brothers. Their legacy is in good hands.

A&M’s Peanut Shop

A&M Peanut Shop has a long and winding history. It began in 1947 as a Planters Peanuts retail outlet in downtown Mobile. In 1949 Albert Reynolds became manager of the shop, which had moved to the Dauphin Street location it still occupies. When Planters divested itself of its retail stores in 1963, Albert bought the shop. Naming it after himself and his wife, A&M Peanuts quickly became an iconic Mobile landmark. In the 1990s, Albert’s daughter Deborah took over the business. She remained owner until 2018, when local attorney and long time customer Buzz Jordan bought it.

You can smell fresh roasted nuts as soon as walk in the door. In immediate view is a display case containing over a dozen different kinds of nuts. The varieties include: Hazelnuts, Brazil Nuts, Almonds, Pecans, Cashews, and several different kinds of peanuts (Blanch, Spanish, Virginia Redskins, and Creole). There are also nuts mixes, Sunflower Seeds, and Pumpkin Seeds. Sold by the pound, I bought a ¼ lb of two: the Jumbo Cashews and the Creole Peanuts. Freshly roasted, the cashews were fabulous. I shared some with a friend who normally does not like cashews and he loved them. The Creole Peanuts were not as fresh and did not leave a strong impression on me. They had a little bit of a kick, but they were also very salty.

Inside of A&M Peanut Shop

Nevertheless, with the freshest nuts around, this iconic shop is a must place to visit.

Next time in town

There were several places on my list that I was not able to get to, but feel are worth mentioning. I hope to visit them someday.

The Spot of Tea is one of the top breakfast places in Mobile. Tony Moore opened it as a Tea Room in 1994. The menu has since evolved to providing a full brunch menu. Located right across from Cathedral Square, it is easy to find. Unfortunately, it was closed for painting while I was in town.

And the one iconic Mobile restaurant that I did not get to was Wintzell’s Oyster House. It’s in downtown Mobile, albeit a bit farther out than the other places I went. Open since 1938, they are well known for their oysters. But they also have a large variety of other seafood as well.

The other places I was interested in are not in downtown Mobile and were harder for me to get to. They include: Dew Drop Inn (famous for their hot dogs since 1924) , Morisson’s Cafeteria (oldest restaurant in Mobile), and an old time ice cream parlor Cammie’s Old Dutch Ice Cream Shoppe. Also on my list were several barbecue restaurants. Meat Boss interested me the most as the have Alabama style barbecue, and Dick Russell’s BBQ is also highly rated. I would also be remiss if I did not point out that, since Mobile is on the gulf, there are many fine seafood restaurants. The two that stood out to me were Bluegill Restaurant and The Mariner Restaurant.

Mobile’s Books

Whistle Stop Cafe, cover

Every time I visit a place, a like to pick up a couple of books. One has to be a cook book. The other just has to have some local flavor. I found The Haunted Book Shop in downtown Mobile is the perfect place for such a quest. The cookbook I chose was Fannie Flagg’s Original Whistle Stop Cafe Cookbook. Compiled by the author of Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Cafe, it is brimming with Southern Recipes.

Fannie Flagg’s Black Bottom Pie

Recipes such as Fried Chicken (actually, there is a whole chapter devoted to chicken), Grits, Creamed Peas, Sausage Gravy, and Crackling Cornbread, these are not light recipes. But they look delicious. I’ve already made one, the Black Bottom Pie. Its taste was to die for.

Mutinous Women, cover.

The second book I bought was Mutinous Women: How French Convicts Became Founding Mothers of the Gulf Coast. A non-fiction book, it covers the history of the region back when it was a French colony. It is not specific to Mobile, but there are a couple of chapters that cover Mobile. The book conveys the history of women sent to the New World against their will. Many were poor, but some were just outspoken. These women achieved unlikely success. A very different kind of history, I am looking forward to reading it.

It turned out I was not done with book purchases. Before I left Mobile, I stopped in their Mardi Gras Museum. Mobile was the first place in America to celebrate Mardi Gras, and Mobilians are quite proud of that. After the tour, I was browsing their gift shop and saw the book Murder at Mardi Gras. I immediately bought it and read it. It’s very much a police procedural. It has some local color, but not a whole lot. What interested me the most was its comparisons of Mardi Gras celebrations in several cities throughout the south, including the one in Mobile.

2 thoughts on “Dining Guide to Historic Mobile, Alabama

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